Michigan, USA. Is this too thick to mulch? Should I rake some up first?

This lawn company must have had a Halloween dress up contest at work.

We get a lot of leaves from surrounding trees and with my bad back raking can take a toll. I came across lawn sweepers which are basically motorless lawn mowers and scoop the leaves up into the bag. I looked some up but the reviews weren’t so good. But pushing lawn mower device sounds much easier. Our method is using a leaf blower to make a pile and then scoop the leaves up and dump them into bags or barrels.

Are lawn sweepers a good way clean the lawn up? If so which one would you recommend. Or maybe something else but my budget is 200 or less so don’t recommend some gas powered driving thing lol

Mushroom Fest

Hello All,
Central US - cut down a tree in this exact location and three years later still getting a TON of mushrooms. Typical how long until mushroom no longer grow?

Cut the grass today and its ridiculous how many there are. Wheels on zero turn were just slipping.

Hey folks, new to the grass scene upkeep here and I may have an issue! I’ve gotten some new sod put in a couple months ago. The past couple weeks I’ve noticed some discoloration in my grass. You can see it in the pictures I’ve attached to this post. The grass is Kentucky blue grass and living in Indiana. You can see a before picture of when I cut it and how green it looked when I would water and all that. It hasn’t received any sort of treatment/fertilizer. When walking through it, my shoes receive a lot of “rust” as they call it on them and turn them an orange color.

Does this look like lawn rust, nutrient deficiency, or another issue?
Would applying a 20-0-10 fertilizer help, or could it make things worse?
Is this something that will recover on its own, or should I treat it now?

Please help me save my grass, or if I need to do anything specific let me know! As always, thank you in advance!

Did I mess up reseeding?

This summer my lawn was completely destroyed due to the drought, so I decided to do a full reset. Zone 8

Blank canvas, prepped the soil, seeded with Barenbrug blue lawn (30% bluegrass 25% ryegrass, 15% Hard fescue, 30% red fescue ) covered with a tiny bit of compost and watered twice a day.

Due to the heat and continuous drought the store adviced me to sow in october, seed was in the ground the 1st of october, I watered twice a day if it didnt rain.

We’re now the 28th. I would’ve expected a much better result by now, still lots of bare spots. Was october to late? Weather is cooling down quickly now with nights about to hit 40 degrees, so would be sad to learn alll my work and money was for nought.

Hi! I'd love some ELI5 advice on my next steps for my lawn.. I'm in 7b in NC, and it looks like the temperature is holding up for the next week+ at least so I'm hoping the patchy areas will fill in. There /is/ grass in most of those areas, just not thick yet.

I'd never tried to care for a lawn before, but this area of the yard was pretty much dead when we bought the house. We'd have to hold our breath when mowing over the scattered grass/weeds because so much dirt would just get kicked up.

I finally decided to try to make an effort in September. It's not perfect by any means BUT there's actually some grass now so I consider it a win.

I did not kill any weeds yet because every bit of green - even weeds - counted to me. LMAO.

Rough timeline:

• Put down some lime in early September
• Aerated, fertilized, and seeded on September 20th
• Used Lesco products for the lime and fertilizer. Used Lesco Shade seed in this area per recommendation of local store since this area is pretty shaded even after cutting down a big tree next to the house.
• Hand dug out a tooonn of little rocks that the previous owner must have blown into the yard after a project. I originally just thought we had rocky dirt, then it clicked that the rocks weren't natural and only on the surface.
• Added more seed after removing as many rocks as I could
• Reseeded areas with 0 growth around October 5th and it's growing now, but may not survive if the frost comes soon.. but I had to try!
• Daily watering since first seeding

Do I just leave it now until spring, or do I fertilize again.. pre-emergent or post-emergent.. I'm so scared of losing my weeds because they're all I've known for the last 2 years, but is it time? Or is it safe to keep them until we have more reliable grassy areas? LMAO.

Thanks in advance.. I'm trying!

In mid-September, I dropped 15 yards of 50-50 soil/compost, and 400 pounds of Twin City tall fescue seed. Watered it as per recommended levels (I have an irrigation system).

It’s thin, and stopped growing. It’s not getting any taller than 2”; I’ve mowed 3x, even though it didn’t seem to need it, hoping to encourage tillering/growth. I applied a fall fertilizer 2 weeks ago.

Suggestions?

Used a power rake, added some loom, and overseeded in mid September with Jonathan Green ultra. So how do stop my grass from looking like crap in July and August. Happens every year.

The yard is patchy and over ran with weeds. I’m considering starting from scratch.

My current plan is to dethatch, aerate, then over seed

Have this 1/2 acre want to grass seed in the spring. There has never been dirt brought in after it was cleared when built. I’m outside of Houston and wondering grass seed recommendations for this amount of sunlight and soil type or if I need to mix some other soil in for best results. I do have sprinklers I can rotate to get another 10 ft of coverage from where picture is on the left, but the rest will be watered by Mother Nature.
Pics taken 4pm
Thanks.

My neighborhood in MN has a lot of wild turkeys.

While I’m no pro, I have been working on making my lawn better year by year. It was doing great. This summer was harsh and personal life got too busy that a small patch of the grass died in the middle. I mowed it real low to overseed, and that was my mistake. That’s all these critters needed to start attacking the lawn.

So, how do I keep them out? They visit 1-3 times a day and have slowly increased the area they dig.

I need something permanent that can keep them out, and I’d like to grow grass again!

In Bay Area/Northern CA. Planted new seed on freshly spread top soil on 10/10. Watering 3 times a day keeping the soil from drying out.

Should I overseed the bare spots? Or will this eventually fill in? Seed is 90% tall fescue and 10% Kentucky bluegrass from the grass farm.

I started this project back in September. Most of the backyard of my new house was covered in weeds, with lots of bare spots. I used DMV Black Beauty, and here’s what it looks like after mowing it for the third and last time this season today. There are still some little bare patches and lots of weeds hiding in this picture, but I’m overall happy with the results, especially since it was my first time doing this.

Hey everyone, hoping for some input on what to do going forward.
I overseeded my lawn about two weeks ago, following every step of the cool season overseeding guide on here. I sprayed the last of the weeds with quinclorac, dethatched, aerated, added topsoil from the local garden center, overseeded with blue resilience seed, and fertilized with 15-15-15.
I have been watering 6 times per day for 3-10 minutes depending on the sprinkler zone to keep the soil moist but not wet/muddy.
Twin cities says 7-10 days for germination and at day 14 I have almost no germination whatsoever. I have not had a frost yet, and my soil is still pretty warm overall.
I have no clue what I did wrong, I used the exact same process at my old house and it worked perfectly. Any advice would be really appreciated

It's supposed to be above fifty degrees all week. Do you think putting down some Urea would help it store some energy for the winter? What brand and rate do you recommend

Location: Northern Colorado

Trying to understand how best to create a uniform lawn coming out of spring. Concerned about the grass differences (I assume crab grass?) and general splotchy patterns.

The top part I think was due to a sprinkler issue that I've hopefully since resolved.

I've read that I should over-seed this fall, although it may be too late due to temperatures? Thanks for any advice!

Edit: Better pictures of tall grass:

I do not know the species but it has grown on its own for 10 years, I've trimmed it to keep it under 8 feet but this year I want to cut it way back like the land scapers at work but I dont want to kill it. Looking for direction to advice on how to care seasonally for this oversized bush.

Tldr: my bush grows taller than my house every year. I want to cut it way back for winter without killing it.

Tyvm.

Nothing fancy…but here are some pics. May have cost me a little over $20 (PVC is filled with gravel rock for weight, then capped)

This is the Ego LM2130SP

Location: upstate NY

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/s/AWaJwQYKVp

Two weeks ago I came here for advice on leaf cleanup. I got every great suggestion that could be thought of. I mentioned I was prepared to drop thousands of dollars for a solution. In the end the comments encouraged me to give mulching the leaves another shot. It's been incredible and fun and I wanted to share an update here.

This area of my yard is just shy of 1 acre (roughly 40,000sqft). It took me a total time of 45 minutes and that included leaf blowing the leaves away from my house and landscape beforehand. This was the third time doing this since the original post 2 weeks ago.

The last picture I took represents a close up of the area where the thickest amount of leaves settled and what is left (Which was located between where I snapped the picture and the lawn mower).

In case it benefits anyone else this was my process:

- blow all the leaves out into mowable space.

- put my deck all the way up and do 4-5 passes just over the thick/heavy areas to mulch them down.

- one-way passes with the chute facing my tree line.

- on the return pass, follow the line I just mowed to dissipate any thicker leftovers into my clean grass.

** Mowing at the lowest setting I could without hitting stuff obviously gives the cleanest pass. I mowed at 3" the first 2 times, and 3.5" this time.

It cost me $80 all in for a set of blades vs some of the other solutions costing up to $20,000 for specialty equipment ideas. AND ONE LAST THING! I did this on a very windy day against the wind last time and it still worked! The mulched leaves were too heavy/fine to catch the wind and fly backwards into the yard! I've always struggled on windy days with a backpack blower.

Thank you everyone for the original suggestions. I no longer dread fall cleanup!

Southern NH. First pic is from two years ago then the second is early summer this year (before I discovered this sub) and third is current. Last two are of a spot I took down a huge pine and proud of how it turned out.

I’ve learned so much from this sub. Put in irrigation this spring and finally put some real effort into the lawn. I was so frustrated wondering why my irrigation didn’t fix all my problems lol. Then, through this sub, I discovered the holy trinity of Tenacity, quinclorac and sedgehammer. For the first time I was able to successfully fight the weeds.

I aerated and overseeded with blue resilience sep 2 and I’m very happy with the results! It may not be as beautiful as some on this sub, but I’m still proud. I’m no longer ashamed comparing to my neighbors. They have professional landscaping and I’m just a guy.

My favorite new toy this year is my vevor backpack sprayer! My lawn is ~13k sqft and it’s hard to take care of alone.

Thank you to the top commentators AND the posters asking the right questions!

First picture is mid August after glyphosate application . Not 100% coverage but overall satisfied with the results.

Planted some Blue Resilience from TCSC on September 19th. I'm in CT, 7a, and it's been getting frosty at night. I haven't cut yet, and I feel like I'm almost done watering it for the season. My question is, does it look long enough to cut? And how should I stop watering all together, or still water once a day? Are there any fertilizers to put down for the winter, or just hit it with pre emergent in the spring?

Its been 4 weeks since I started a new lawn fresh from seed. Its looking solid but I'm not sure when to stop watering, or spread out the watering sessions throughout the week. If this lawn wasn't brand new I know I could taper off watering as it nears hibernation, but should I continue deep soaks to promote root growth as we move into November? This is Central NJ, 7A.

This is in Australia Sydney.

sorry for the bad photo but I have extremely thick thatch (extremely spongy) layer as shown on the photo and I will mow the lawn shorter and gently dethatch abit, any recommendation of what kind of rake to use in the attached photos? The lawn is just a small area so I am only considering manual de thatching.