I used to work in repair. I mostly fixed small household appliances and portable devices. Every time I needed a datasheet or had to identify a part by its SMD code, it was a pain. Most apps are full of ads, or the free version is cut down, and you have to buy "Pro" for basic stuff.

I wanted one tool that has everything in one place, free. So, I built it.

What it does (briefly):

- Component calculators (resistors, capacitors, inductors, BMS, transistors)

- Datasheet search via DigiKey and LCSC, with a built-in PDF viewer (no browser needed)

- Visual pinouts for connectors and common ICs (including Soviet chips)

- SMD code search -- 270k+ components, type the code from the package and get the model/params

It's on Windows and Android, free, no ads, offline after first launch (only datasheet search need internet).

The source code is on GitHub if you want to check it out: [link]

I'm mostly sharing this because I know how annoying the search process can be. If you try it and something's missing or broken, let me know, I'm actively updating it based on feedback.

Does anyone know what is this fault it suddenly appeared all of the sudden, the tv is not under warranty what should I do

TV is excatly 2 years old. Samsung TV Q80D 65 inch. TV would have to be replaced? Is there a fix for this?

EDIT: The line is at the top of the screen.

Bought a canon XL2 camcorder off of eBay. Owners said it worked the last time they used it. I waited separately for the battery to arrive a month later. Camera powers on but the display is white no matter what.

Back panel is like this when it's. Closed . The area where keyboard n screen meet at the back . When should I take it to repairs?

Why is my cerwin-Vega always blowing a fuse when I plug it in. I’m not even turning on the power switch?

As you can see in the video I have a wide vertical line on my screen. It changes colour depending on the picture and even on a black picture there is still a (fainter) green line.

I tried doing a pixel refresh and it didn't help.

I read online that I might be able to massage it out but that didn't do anything.

I tried opening it up and cleaning the ribbon cables going into the tcon board but that also didn't help.

I could try replacing the tcon board as it's not really expensive but I don't want to order anything that I don't need.

Can anyone tell if this is easily repairable, or should I just live with it?

Thank you🙏🙏

Hello,

Not sure if this the right post.

I have a Marantz CD6003 that will not close completely. This is new after a small knock of the cd tray whilst it was open and then closing (so about halfway)

I've taken the dust cover off and had a look but my knowledge is limited.

Does anyone have any advice on how to repair this or any how-to guides?

Hey everyone, I’m using a Lenovo IdeaPad Gaming 3 15ARH7. The motherboard inside is a Compal HLG50 LA-M082P. It's running the stock 135W slim-tip charger, and it's out of warranty.

The Problem:
If I plug in the charger and boot the machine (or wake it from sleep), within about 10 seconds the power fault light starts blinking and it completely stops charging. To clear it, I have to replug it a bunch of times or completely cycle the wall outlet power strip.

The Diagnostic Data:
I hooked up a multimeter and measured the voltage rail directly at the input decoupling capacitors right after the physical DC jack:

• System Idle (when it's not faulting) or turned off: A clean, stable 20.3V.
• Full Sustained Load (when it's not faulting): Stays at a perfectly clean 20.3V with zero faults. I tested this running ffmpeg (HEVC slow preset + NVENC simultaneous encoding) and a full afternoon of gaming with the GPU pulling around 46W and the CPU at 50W.
• At the exact moment of the fault (Boot/Wake only): The voltage rail instantly sags down to ~16V, tripping the fault light.

So, this isn't a continuous high-current draw issue. The charger handles a sustained ~100W line completely fine. It strictly fails on that sudden, massive transient current spike during boot or wake-up.

What I've ruled out so far:

• OS/Software: Happens identically on both Linux and Windows.
• Display/PD Conflict: Happens on HDMI with no USB-C PD devices connected, and even with no external monitors attached at all.
• DC Jack Damage: 0.8MΩ to ground, no shorts, and physical pins look completely pristine.
• Dead Battery: Reads a normal ~17V.

My Theory:
Since I don't have a spare brick on hand yet, I'm stuck between two possibilities:

1. Failing Charger Brick: The filtering capacitors inside the secondary output stage of the 135W adapter have aged and lost their capacitance (high ESR). They can't buffer the instantaneous current step when the CPU/GPU core phases wake up and the EC commands an aggressive battery charge rate, causing the rail to crash. The fact that I have to power cycle the wall outlet strongly implies the charger's internal latching protection (OCP/UVLO) is tripping.
2. Board-Level Issue: The main VIN rail capacitors on the LA-M082P board are degraded and failing to act as a local reservoir, forcing an extreme rate of current change that would choke even a healthy power adapter.

My immediate next step is obviously to swap in a known-good genuine Lenovo 135W or 170W slim-tip brick to isolate the variable.

Before the new adapter arrives, has anyone dealt with this exact fault behavior on these Compal boards or Lenovo bricks? Does this symptom profile heavily lean toward a tired power brick, or should I be prepping to inspect the input MOSFETs and soft-start circuit on the board?

Just woke up to this. Didn't drop it, took it with me under the shower etc.

quiero saber si existe algún producto para eliminar rayones de pantallas táctiles, esta pantalla es algo debil a los rayones, llevo solo un dia de uso y solo lo tuve en el bolsillo del pantalón, quería colocarle una proteccion para evitar esto, pero sucedió antes. si alguien sabe de alguna forma segura de eliminar este rayon se lo agradecería mucho.

Images link : https://ibb.co/album/tw3wtv

Video link : https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BbiiZYW8BAONctWgL5EW7gkCsqKfZnyp/view?usp=drivesdk

This is a senao sn555, super long range cordless telephone.,it was in the attic for a long time , I didn't find any manual or even anything about this model on the internet ,maybe it so old , it was sold in the middle east , says made in taiwan ,the handdset itself had this battery with its cover worn off,I tried to put it on a charger ,the device lights up the blue indicator light up left ,then I hear a chime ,then nothing ,tried a lithium nokia battery ,and. Nothing ,I opened the board ,I didn't see anything wrong ,I'm not an expert in electronics, please help,also, I tested continuity mode on multimeter on the area marked on photo using multimeter ,some showed continuity, others didn't, I think this means there is a short

Note: tried to make the video as steady as possible, I'm recording from a tablet

Note 2: Serial written on device and base : NF452980

My diablo trinity t1000 screen died and it has all my tuens on it. My question is can I replace it with another screen with the same ribbon pin count. Or are ribbon cables like wiring diagram where every pin runs a different aspect of the function. Similar to connectors. I'm not super familiar with ribbon cables.

ADATA XPG D30 DDR4 RAM - Knocked off SMD decoupling capacitor. Does anyone know the typical capacitance value for bypass caps in this position, or can it be bridged/replaced?, ram didn't boot at all

Hey everyone, I have a large Bluetooth speaker that the power button seems to want to separate from the PCB. The power connection is still secure and will turn the device on and off if I take the board out of the casing and depress the button directly. But if left in place and press down on the rubber overlay the way as it is intended the button bends down away from the overlay and comes away from the PCB a little which then results in you can either not turn it on or off. How would you go about fixing this? I've never fixed something like this before, I have a mechanical equipment background but have never gotten into electronics at all. I wouldn't normally bother but it is pretty new though it's not expensive and I thought why not give it a try? If I can repair it, awesome. If I can't I'm not out much and I've gained a little experience.

Currently experiencing a weird sound when starting my speakers. After a while it turns into a high pitched sound. If I play music for some time it will go away sometimes. With no music on or after turning it off and on the high pitched sound comes back again.

Is this a common issue and maybe easy to fix?

Edit: opened the speaker up and added some photos.

So I was trying to repair my mom's TV and in the t-con board I believe it is. I noticed these two ic chips look like it had a thermal event around it. However, when I threw it into AI says it's just flux. I've seen flux work but I don't think I've ever seen it look like this and I want to get someone else's opinion on it.

Edit: The TV powers on, get stuck on the Sony Bravia logo. Attempts to power cycle based on what I found online don't seem to work. And I've checked, cleaned and reseated all connectors