I need to remove my bicycle chain, and even with a chain tool, I’m really struggling. I’ve spent nearly an hour trying to get it off, but I’m exhausted now.

This is my first time attempting to remove a bike chain; as far as I can tell, the chain tool is positioned correctly, but it won’t turn anymore (or perhaps I’ve just run out of strength). I don’t think the fact that it’s a cheap tool is the issue. I don’t mind if I end up breaking the chain I need to remove it anyway to install a new one so any advice would be welcome.

Hi guys, so I just came off the trainer with my gravel, put in the real wheel and wanted to shift into a lighter gear when suddenly the up-shift lever got loose (no resistance and no shift). When looking into the lever, the cable looks all fuzzied up, so I can see the single strands of cable. I guess this is the issue? Can someone confirm please.

Never installed a shift cable so seems like a good learning lol

I just did my first brake bleed. SRAM Level Stealth Silver with DOT 5.1 on a Trek Farley 9.6. I toiled for weeks over doing it. Watched every video I could. Bought all the tools I needed. Made sure I had fresh DOT fluid. Went step by step meticulously, while watching the video. Zero bubbles.

Get on the bike and go for a ride and.. I now have mushiest, brakes I have ever used. Levers sink right down to the grips. I need to get it sorted for a ride this weekend so off to the LBS it is. Really wanted to be able to do this myself and have no idea where I went wrong but.. majorly pissed and disappointed.

#rantover

Sorry for the blurry photo but it’s difficult to take from underneath the trike clearly

The cranks on my bike somehow unscrewed themselves and i’m struggling to figure out how to tighten them. Any help would be great.

Bought this (I think) 10 speed deore derailleur from my local co op. I have a microshift 11-48 10 speed cassette but the cable clamp is coming extremely close. Not sure if it’s just really misaligned or I need a different derailleur. This is my first 3x7 to 1x10 conversion so I really have no idea what I’m doing lol

Had been having issues with my front brake feeling spongy. Tried bleeding it without success. Took it to LBS and they called saying the front lever was leaking fluid and would need to be replaced. A new lever is $250. I found a pre-owned lever from a reputable online shop I have ordered from in the past. LBS had told me they’d advise against installing a used lever. Why would that be?

Hi all,

Just got an Orbea Orca Aero and I want to run a saddle with 7x9mm oval carbon rails. The stock clamp is the round-rail one, so I need an oval one.

The official Orbea part is the Saddle Clamp Ordu / Orca Aero OMX Oval, part number X1860000. It's pricey and I can't find it in Australia, only overseas shops.

Does anyone know of:

- A cheaper aftermarket clamp that fits the Orca Aero seatpost and takes 7x9mm carbon rails, or

- A clamp that fits but clamps vertically rather than horizontally the way the stock one does?

Or if anyone's run 7x9 rails on this post and can confirm what worked, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I recently received my new Cube Attain C:62 SLX 2027 47 cm. The bike came almost fully assembled, and one of the only thing I had to install was the one-piece carbon cockpit onto the carbon fork steerer tube.

I applied carbon assembly paste to the contact surfaces and tightened the cockpit bolts to the recommended torque of 4.5–5 Nm.

The problem is that when I hold the front wheel between my legs and try to turn the handlebars with a bit of force, I can still make the cockpit rotate relative to the front wheel.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a carbon cockpit and steerer tube? Could I be missing something during installation, or could there be an issue with the assembly or the components themselves?

I also haven't managed to route the cables inside the frame as expected. Some of the cables remain visible externally, and I'm not sure whether I'm missing a step during the cockpit installation or if there's a specific routing procedure for this model.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

the grease on the spindle was also brown before cleaning up

Apologies if the title doesn't explain it well but the video should show it clearly. The derailleur cage basically has very little tension for a degree or two of rotation before you can actually feel the clutch resisting it. This causes a lot of chain slap. Would this be fixable with a new clutch assembly or is it a deeper issue?

Hey guys, I bought my first road bike the other day, a 90s Trek 1200, and needed to replace the tires. I got some 700x28c tires and they will not seat properly. Most of the witness line follows the rim, and then one spot dips down below it on both sides of the tire. I tried using soapy water on the bead but it still won't seat fully no matter how many times I retry it.

Any advice?

first time building from scratch just tryna cover my bases haha

Hello community!

I am looking to do some service on my crankset, but the only information I could find was the schematics at:

https://www.bikeschematics.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/FSA/Cranksets/FSA%20Energy%20Modular%20BB386EVO%20Crankset.pdf

The self-extracting bolt is on the drive side, which is different than all the YouTube videos I could find on FSA cranksets. Does this mean I will need to turn the self-extracing bolt clockwise to loosen it?

TIA for all your help!

How am I supposed to open this seized up freehub to look at the rachets? I've done a few already, first time coming across one that looks press fitted or something. There is a rubber seal on top, but I feel I would tear it off if I tried removing it.

I wanted to fix this bike up again and while doing so I ran into this broken seal. Since the bike has been standing around in warehouse for at least 5 years it is not surprising the rubber got old, my question tho is if the spacing is right. I checked the bearing and its still fine but in my mind the spacing, even with the seal on looks kinda off. I have no expertise with bikes tho, so I can’t really tell. Some advice would be really appreciated:) if you need any mor pictures to tell im happy to upload them.

Also, how can I find a replacement for the seal, there are no indications on it?

I purchased a new bicycle and from day one the rear shifter shifts 8 times on an 8 speed. Lots of grindy gears no matter how much tweaking I do it is always slightly out of position with occasional gear jumping or missed shifts. I assume this is because with the 8 shifts you can never truly have the gear position right. Anyone have some clues as to a fix or do I need a new shifter? Thanks in advance

edit: it is supposed to only shift 7 times on and 8 speed, right?

Have this Sram X01 eagle 12s chain with barely 200 km on it. Size it for a 32 chainring and a 50 on the cassette now running a 34 chainring and 52 on the back so obviously is going to be too short. Could I add more links with the chain tool or is better to use another Sram quicklink? I already add some more chain and it seems fine but dont want to snap the chain in the first ride. Did any of you try it?

I broke my saddle clamp on my aventon mararo seatpost,i don't know where to buy the part for it aventon mataro

I changed my bike chain and after that, my bike started skipping occasionally on high load, only in the large chainring. It happens only when stepping on the pedals, or when starting with my bike totally still with the chain in the large chainring. Cassette looks new, so I'm sure that's not the source of the problem. Could it be incorrect chain length? After my last ride I'd checked the length of the chain with the large cog to large chainring method an it was a couple of links long. Haven't tried it after cutting it

Hello all,

i need advice from people who drove/are driving kona sutra. Mine is from 2020 and its size bigger than what it should be. Im 175cm male with usually “book proportions”, but reach feels wrong no matter how i setup saddle (i also slip alot from original brooks, so i will be replacing it also).

question is, what stem can i replace original with, obviously i have to go with shorter, since i cant swap bike for size 52. Mine is 54.

what saddle would you recommend for touring etc 60angle

Bb30 loud creak. Again. It’s making that noise even with the chain off. Chain’s off cause i just cleaned the drivetrain before i try and fix this later. How do i fix this permanently, or at least keep it quiet for a few thousand km? This happened before, the first time, i replaced the bearings. Then after less than 1000km the noise was there again. 2nd time it happened was when i climbed during a rainy ride. I removed the crankset, checked, everything seemed ok, so i just cleaned the axle/spindle and added some grease. It went quiet for around another 1000km, then i got caught in the rain again on the way to the climb, it was quiet during the climb, then went noisy again after the climb and during the ride home. What could be causing this? I was wondering if the c clip have anything to do with this. Anyone experienced this recurring b30 issue? I am about to remove the crankset later.

i don't know where to buy the saddle clamp for my aventon mataro push anyone know's where to buy?

Hey all!

Building my first bike and am stumped what to do with this threaded fork that is too long for my headset.

Aside from swapping the headset out (which I believe requires specialist tools?) what are my stem options and what would the best way to cover the ugly thread? Or do I perhaps attempt cutting it back?

Cheers in advance.