The camera used is a Canon R5 M2. Attached is the raw image. It was shot with f22, 1/3200, and iso of 51200. I had it on shutter priority mode and I hadn’t noticed at the time that that it had boosted the iso so much until afterwards. I was wondering if there was a way to attempt to save the photo. Thanks for any help.

I am currently taking a photography course and our teacher is asking us to take this kind of photo where the subject is in motion, but the background is still. **It needs to be in Program mode**

I've been trying to recreate something similar to these pictures but I'm never able to get a long enough and clear light trail. I'm also struggling with getting a decent picture with a dark lighting.

I'm using a Sony A5000. Any advice?

Like many of you, I have a lot of expensive gear. I love the shots I get but refuse to carry around a $2500 body with a $3000 lens in my work truck everyday. What’s your budget build and share a shot…

My current “truck camera” is a Canon R100 with a Sigma 18-250mm HSM DC OS lens. I’m in the setup for around $450.

Post your budget kit and pics.

I took these over the last week.

Hey everyone.

I'm looking to make the jump from smartphone photography (currently using a Galaxy S24 Ultra) to a mirrorless setup.

I do a lot of hiking up in the mountains, and my main subjects are alpine landscapes and 1800s historic mining ruins and ghost towns.

​I've attached some sample photos I've taken so you can get a feel for what I like to shoot.

​One of the biggest challenges I run into is lighting - like trying to capture the details of a shaded mine structure when there's bright sunlight right behind it. I'm hoping a dedicated camera will give me better dynamic range to handle that sharp contrast.

​I'm still pretty new to photography terminology, but I've been looking at buying used gear on MPB. The kit I'm considering is:

​Sony Alpha a6400

​Sony E PZ 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS (for wider landscape shots)

​Sony E 55-210mm f/4.5-6.3 OSS (for zooming in on distant ruins or peaks)

​Does this seem like a solid setup for hiking trails and dealing with high-contrast scenes? Are these lenses the right move, or should I be looking at something else?

​Any advice is appreciated!

Is this just a lot of masking and pulling blacks and shadows down?

Hello! I have a Sony Cyber-Shot Dsc-Hx300 and really got into photography this year.

Specifically a lot of night photography!

The problem is just that I am not sure what settings are best and I was unable to find any good info anywhere about my camera model...

Attached are two images I took of Luna, one month apart, I don't really recall what I changed as I was just wildly rummaging through settings, but I am still a bit disappointed in the focus on the camera.

Do I need a tripod?

Or are there any other settings I can change?

I would be incredibly grateful for any help I can get!

I need advice on figuring out how to price my services as a photographer. 
A few months back, I decided to start getting into photography a little more seriously. So far, over the past few months Ive been going to events to photograph for free or taking self-portraits at home with all my gear and uploading some of mywork/contnet to Instagram. Recently, I’ve been asked about my price for things such as headshots or portraits, and I figure 180 is a fair starting price for 1-2 hr sessions, assuming I need minimal gear and don't require a studio. Now the tricky part occurred a few days ago: I offered to take a few practice product photography photos for a business owner I personally know, and to my surprise, he told me he actually needs a photographer to take photos of the products for his store's website. He mentioned there are about 3,000 products that will need photos done, and that's only for one of his stores. I believe he's also interested in photos for his other locations. I will be using my own gear: my camera (Canon R10) and lenses (35 & 50 mm), lighting (2 speed lights & softboxes)& a strobe I'm planning on getting bc of this. Stands, backdrop, laptop, editing, etc., and I should calculate my labor, travel fee, etc. How would I go about pricing this? Do I need a 1099 since I also plan on getting other clients in the future, but he did mention payroll as an option? A friend told me to start by just drafting up a contract in ChatGPT. I don’t really trust that, or at least I need more of an understanding of this side of things before even considering utilizing AI for anything

I currently shoot food photography for cafés and restaurants using a Canon Rebel T7 with a 50mm f/1.8.

The café I work with most often is pretty dark and has warm ambient lighting, which makes getting consistent results a bit challenging. Right now, I’m using two basic LED work lights that aren’t designed for photography, so I’m looking for something better without spending too much.

I’m considering two options:
NEEWER FS60B (60W): cheaper, and I might have enough left for a light stand.
NEEWER FS100B (100W): around $140, slightly over my budget. If I go with this one, my friend would hold it during shoots since I wouldn’t be buying a stand right away.

I mainly photograph food, drinks, and products, along with close-up shots of coffee preparation and similar details. I don’t really shoot wide shots of the café or large spaces.

My main concern is whether the extra power of the 100W would make a noticeable difference in a fairly dark environment, especially when using diffusion, or if the 60W would be enough for this type of photography.

I plan to invest in a much better camera and lighting setup in the future, but I’m not sure when that will happen. Ideally, whatever I buy now would still be useful as a secondary light later.

Would you spend the extra money on the 100W, even without a stand, or get the 60W and potentially a stand?
I’d really appreciate advice from anyone who shoots food or products in similar lighting conditions.

As the title suggests my business partner convinced me to join him and convert our company to Sony after buying a sports teams FX3, FX6, and A7Siii for an insane bargain. Looking to now get 2 photo bodies. I predominantly shoot motorsports, local brand type stuff, portraits, and I am adding more horse shows. I value glass over a newer body so looking at slightly older models to match. I originally was looking at the original A9 but am worried about the flicker banding issues for inside stuff. Seems the A9ii fixed this issue or did it? And for another body I am looking at something high megapixel for portrait/studio type work. A7riii?

Glass I plan to buy the 50-150/2, 35 1.4, 24 1.4, 90 2.8
We already have 24-70 2.8, 60-600, 28-135 oss

Thank you

I just volunteered as the photographer for my kid's school soccer team this semester and I'm trying to gear up. They already have a tripod, but it's way too heavy to drag around the sidelines, also I need to move fast to follow the action and travel with the team from time to time, sometimes the game is too intense to setup the tripod. So I’m thinking about getting a monopod instead, I’d prefer something affordable, lightweight, and easy to set up or adjust quickly. Ideally, it should be sturdy enough to support my camera and lens(Sony a7c with 70-200mm) while still letting me move around freely during a game.

I’m looking for some portable options that offer good value for money (hopefully my kid sticks with the soccer team, but if he loses interest, I can always resell the gear haha)Are there any specific budget friendly monopods/tripods for sports game you guys recommend? Any tips on what features are actually worth paying for would be really helpful, thanks in advance!

I’ve been looking to get back into photography. Nothing professional just hobby. Just looking for something decent that I can take good stills with. Not looking to do much if any video. I’ve done a fair amount of research at this point and I think I’ve got it narrowed down. The big question is do I go with micro four thirds (om-5ii) and get everything I’m looking for. Or should I go aps c and get Sony a6700. The om-5 ii stands out to me personally and all in I’d be around 1400 with a 14-150 lens. Sony, a little more $ but aps c. I’d like to be at 1500 usd total with a lens.

Hi All!

I have a close friend who i would shoot for, for free. Almost twice a year. a birthday shoot in nyc and anything else needed maybe ( 2 ).

He recently asked me to help rebrand his artist, by :

1. running her social

2. doing a photoshoot in nyc one in studio, one outdoors early morning ( broken down into two days ) + videography color graded

3. image rebranding

He said he would take care of me. that usually means he'll buy me a drink or a plant but it's just toooo much, initially I said yes because i believed in his vision. which in 100 percent my fault for being a people pleaser. also his timelines for what he wants are unrealistic.

Being a yes man and trying to be nice to people has put me behind on rent by about a week and a few bills and i'm not sure how to take one day off the table for this project just so i dont overwhelm myself as i work on other things

i dont think he's being malicious i just dont think he knows the worth

while this friend is telling me to slow down he's also piling work on top of me. while i asked him to go ahead and find places to shoot he went forward and found places for his birthday shoot which would be a week later and again...free. he's so great but....

i just don't have a capacity to do these things anymore as someone who has rent, a kid and a care note, etc . i kinda don't know how to fix this problem. any advice?

basically the title!

I'm an intermediate photographer overall, I have a few years of client work in sports photography but would like to pivot to portraits, engagements, and eventually elopements and weddings.

My primary combo is a Canon EOS 7D Mark II which I combine with a 70-200mm f2.8 lens for sports. What are some lenses recommended for portrait photography and weddings? I have some shorter prime lenses but would like something with wide angles and solid ranges.

TIA!

Hey everyone!

I’m looking to buy my first serious camera (until now, I’ve used some pretty basic ones), and I’ve narrowed it down to two options: the Sony A7 III and the original Nikon Z6. I’m having a hard time deciding between them since the specs are pretty similar, so I’d love to hear from people who have used either.

I’m interested in a camera that can do general photography (landscapes and travel), but also perform well in astrophotography (milky way pictures and deep sky too). So low light performance is important for me.

My idea is to buy a used camera. My ideal budget is around 1300-1500 euros (lens, 20-70mm range, f/2.8 aperture, included in the budget, but I wouldn’t worry too much about the lens because my dilemma is more about the camera). I’ve noticed that the Nikon is usually cheaper, so I would like to know if the A7 III is worth the price difference compared to the Nikon. Maybe I could use the price difference to buy the Nikon and a better lens.

I read about the “star eater” issue on the A7 III and the concentric rings problem with the Nikon Z6. Does anyone know how serious this is in practice?

I’d really appreciate firsthand experience, particularly from anyone who’s used either camera either for general photography or astrophotography. Thanks!

(1) Budget, country and currency: 600-1000 euros for the body. I plan to buy a used camera in Europe. As far as I’ve seen, both cameras fall within budget

(2) What equipment, if any, do you have till now and why is it no longer meeting your needs?
So far, I’ve been doing photography with borrowed cameras from friends and family (mostly DSLR Canon). I want to buy some serious equipment of my own that performs better under low light.

(3) What kind of subjects do you intend to shoot?
As I said, I’d like it for general photography (landscapes, nature and cities) but also for astrophotography in particular.

(4) Is it primarily for photography, videography, or both?
Photography

Picture taken with the ultra wide camera on a Samsung Galaxy A56.

hi everyone, I’ve been a hobby photographer since I was 15 but I’m recently starting to take things more seriously and I’ve been practicing with manual on both film and digital, and doing tons of research. my question is, why is Fujifilm so looked down on for professional photographers? I grew up using a canon t5, switched to film, but purchased a Fujifilm xt30ii and have been using it more than anything this past year and I’ve found it to be an extremely capable camera with great quality. isn’t photography supposed to be about the product you put out, aka the photo? this is a genuine question because if I’m going to pursue photography as a career I’d like to know why so many photographers steer away from Fujifilm in their work.

Hi!

I recently bought my first mirrorless camera, the Canon EOS R50 and I've been using it with the RF-S 18-45mm kit lens for about three months now.

I'm still pretty new to mirrorless photography and learning how to get the most out of my camera. While I've enjoyed shooting with the R50, I've noticed that some of my photos don't look as sharp or detailed as I'd like.

I understand that the R50 is an entry-level camera, but I've seen people capture some incredible shots with it, so I'm wondering whether the kit lens is holding me back or if I simply need to improve my photography skills and camera settings.

I'm now considering investing in a better lens, but honestly I'm overwhelmed by the options and not sure where to start.

I mostly enjoy casual street photography, outdoor scenes, and capturing moments at events. I prefer a versatile lens that I can carry around for everyday photography.

I'd really appreciate some advice from experienced Canon R-series users!

I'm not looking to spend a fortune, but I'm willing to invest in a good lens that I can continue using as my photography skills improve.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

I have a canon rebel eos T7 and have been meaning to get better lens that allow me to zoom in further. I am going to be taking photos for my schools dance team next month but will likely have to take them from the audience in a medium sized auditorium. What lenses would be both compatible, and take good photos in lower lighting/ have a good zoom.
(Also they want me to take videos so any tips are welcome)
I want these photos to look really good/I don’t want them to have put their trust in me and the photos turn out bad because I have the wrong lens so seriously any help is welcome!

​

I dont necessarily mean going to a different city, I mean how often to put aside an entire day to take photos?

I mainly photograph protests and social action events, but I live in a smaller city so its quite scarce for me to find events I will put a day aside to actually go photograph, maybe 2 a month at most.

So how often are you finding projects where you put the entire day aside to take photos?

Hi,

I am the photographer for a youth educational theatre program where I take production photos for all the shows throughout the year. I’ve been using Pixieset as a gallery hosting site for years, and up until now I’ve just sent out login and access information for each individual gallery.

However, we’ve been looking for a change. I’m hoping to find a platform where (ideally) parents can log in via email and access the collection of galleries that their kids are featured in, and not have access to other ones. Since we’re working with kids, our privacy policy states that we only allow access to galleries that feature your kids.

Is there anything like that out there? Or, is there a way I can achieve this with Pixieset that I’m not aware of?

Hi, some time ago I got a Lumix gx7 and an Olympus 17mm f2.8 pancake lens but I've found it uncomfortable to use because I need to get relatively close to people for portraits.

I've also tried a 50mm lens on a film camera and it felt more forgiving with spacing.

I'm looking for a lens with a longer focal length than the olympus but I don't know if the difference between a 17mm and a 25mm is big enough to justify buying a "nifty fifty" prime.

What budget lenses would you recommend?

🚨 HELP! PHOTOGRAPHERS & TECH-SAVVY FRIENDS — I NEED SOME ADVICE! 📸

I have a Seagate external HDD that I’ve used for storing and editing photos through Lightroom for quite some time with ZERO issues.

I have a client session from August that I’ve been slowly editing here and there, and everything has worked perfectly until today.

For some reason, ONE specific folder refuses to open! Every other folder on the drive works perfectly fine. When I try accessing this particular folder, either nothing happens or I get an error message.

The photos still show up in Lightroom, but Lightroom can’t access the original files on the external drive, so I can’t continue editing.

Here’s what I’ve tried so far:

Restarted my laptop multiple times.
Disconnected and reconnected the external drive.
Tried accessing the folder directly through File Explorer.
Connected the drive to ANOTHER laptop and had the EXACT SAME ISSUE! Every other folder opens just fine except this one.

My questions are:

Has anyone experienced this with a Seagate external hard drive?
Could this be a corrupted folder, and is there a way to fix or recover it?
Are my photos actually lost, or is there still hope of retrieving them?

These are CLIENT PHOTOS, so I’m understandably stressing! 😭

If anyone has experienced this or knows what I can do to safely recover these photos, I’d REALLY appreciate the help! ❤️

Hello. I've been shooting digital for awhile now and I'm feeling more comfortable with my cam. I'm looking to shoot with flash for the first time and have a specific look in mind. Bare with me if I have some stupid questions. Introducing flash to my photography process feels like learning how to write with my left hand.

My main questions: Can I achieve this look with mirroless digital body, tamron lens, and post processing effects or would this look be locked behind an SLR? I feel especially drawn in by the warmth of the flash. My worry is that shooting with digital will emphasize the blue/white light of the flash when what I'm looking for is this filmic warmth. I considered a tungsten gel to sway the blue light but I'm afraid it will come out more orange than the soft warmth pictured in the references. Essentially, can I achieve this film look with mirroless and non-prime lens?

A couple notes: I do have a Godox it32 on the way with a remote trigger. I also have light stands that I can use for off-body mounting incase i want to get fancy with lighting angles.

Image references:

https://imgur.com/a/mS5hoeZ

Has anyone taken one of Julia Fullerton-Batten's lighting workshops? Given the complexity of her setups and the one-day intensive format, I'm wondering whether it's worth signing up.